implies increasing by introduction of air or a little something insubstantial and implies a vulnerability to sudden collapse.
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Wave duration is a function of period of time, and of drinking water depth for depths a lot less than somewhere around 50 percent the wave length, where the wave movement is influenced by friction with the bottom.
This variation was located for being a scientific functionality on the swell steepness: the ratio in the swell top to your wavelength. The main reason for this actions remains to be unclear, nonetheless it is possible this dissipation is a result of the friction in the air-sea interface.
literary His heart/breast swelled with satisfaction (= he felt incredibly very pleased) as he stood viewing his son graduate.
abdomen inflate indicates expanding by introduction of air or a little something insubstantial and indicates a vulnerability to unexpected collapse.
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cavity depression pit effectively hollow dent gap recess valley basin bowl indentation dip crater concave concavity indenture impact Swell eth dint trough pocket groove indent trench furrow notch gouge dimple See Far more
The dispersed arrival of swells, starting up While using the longest period of time, with a discount in the peak wave period eventually, can be utilized to determine the distance at which swells had been generated.
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wave surge billow tsunami ripple surf curl sea(s) breaker whitecap ground swell roller comber riffle tidal wave wavelet
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Wind velocity – the wind must be moving quicker as opposed to wave crest (while in the course wherein the wave crest travels) for Web Electrical power transfer from air to h2o; much better extended winds generate more substantial waves
While the sea point out during the storm features a frequency spectrum with kind of a similar form (i.e. a effectively defined peak with dominant frequencies within moreover or minus 7% of the peak), the swell spectra are Progressively more slim, at times as two% or a lot less, as waves disperse more and additional absent.